[Bouncer88]

Just curious I know LS rods are really shitty but would you guys run a turbo setup on an LS vtec engine using stock (brand new) rods and forged 10:1 CR pistons?

I basically got a brand new reworked ls block (decked honed line bored cleaned and fluxed) and reworked b16 Vtec head ( titanium retainers, dual valve springs, 3 angle valve job, shaved, cleaned and checked for cracks) for a d16z6 and z6 transmission. (the kid owed me 800 dollars so I just told him I would trade my shit for his shit and we will call it even)

Have papers on the block and head (receipts and whatnot) and I was there when we picked everything up from the machine shop anyway, except for the head he had that sent out to some place in NH , would have to look at the papers.

[forcefanajd]

at the very least get them shot peened.....

[Bouncer88]

at the very least get them shot peened.....

I read that on someones build thread. I figured if the pistons are taking most of the shit and they are a good set of pistons then I could get away with stock ls rods but if I have to get forged rods then I will.

I was also thinking about going the JRSC route as well it is up in the air at the moment however.

[kyden]

make sure you replace the rod bolts with arp ones.

is your block bored for the pistons?

[Bouncer88]

make sure you replace the rod bolts with arp ones.

is your block bored for the pistons?

I doubt it, but I dont have a problem paying the money again to have it bored again to match the pistons.

I will definitely be using arp head studs and arp rod bolts.

[kyden]

i just reread your original post. definitely use some forged rods. didn't see the part where you said turbo.

[Bouncer88]

i just reread your original post. definitely use some forged rods. didn't see the part where you said turbo.

Any suggestions? Also who could tune this around here?

[Romano]

Any suggestions? Also who could tune this around here?

Definitely want forged rods. I would use forged rods before forged pistons (if I could only pick one to use in my motor that is).

And IMO, you can't go wrong with Eagle H-Beam Rods. KINDA pricey, but haven't heard a bad thing about them yet!

Will have to "notch" the block (crankcase) to compensate for the larger rods.

Good Luck!

[kyden]

he has a b series, no need to notch.

i would get manleys over eagle. they're only like 20 bucks more, but well worth it.

[gasper44]

Sell the titanium retainers, buy Crower or Supertech chromoly/aluminum ones.

If you want to buy rods/pistons, look for best price on the combo, I can tell you where I bought mine if you pm me, but who knows, local guys may be able to beat it as you won't have to pay a shipping charge.

[Romano]

he has a b series, no need to notch.

i would get manleys over eagle. they're only like 20 bucks more, but well worth it.

oops!

that's why I'll stick with my D-Series



haha

and hmmmm, Gasper, why chromoly/aluminum over titanium?!?!

[gasper44]

oops!

that's why I'll stick with my D-Series



haha

and hmmmm, Gasper, why chromoly/aluminum over titanium?!?!

If it's not going to be used for track only purposes, which I don't think it is as almost no-one's car here is including myself, then, youll have better experience with one of the others. I learned this from other's experiences of frequent valve adjustments to where the titanium wears quicker. It is lighter, but nobody ever said it was stronger. I am running Crower Cromoly ones, and I can get the Bseries part # if you need it, there are 2 part numbers, one for supertech etc etc type springs, and one specific for crower springs, all I run crower is their retainers so I bought their "non crower valvetrain" part #

[All Out Performance]

for a price on eagle rods PM me. Spend the money for extra insurance. you dont wanna break a rod in half!

This post has been edited by All Out Performance: 08 February 2010 - 06:39 PM

[forcefanajd]

manleys